Who's Next? The great thing about the initial chaos of Who's Next is that it has lasted.
I was at the first editions! I remember the necessary emergence of this show, which was a symbol. A new generation was arriving and wanted to do battle. The other brands that were supposed to speak to young people suddenly seemed like ankylosed monoliths. A fight in every sense of the word! The chaos was there because once the routine walls of ready-to-wear had come down, these things could be done with joy and glee. The improvisation of the obvious. I remember a hall where there were dozens of stands, each one like a birthday party, a housewarming party, a wild cabaret. A cheerful atmosphere. Everyone looked like a DJ.
Everyone was playing at the same time. The cacophony was real. Everything hybridized, subdivided. Clubwear, skatewear, bmxwear, cyberwear, snowwear, workwear, clubwear, technowear - these were just some of the categories I had noted in my spiral notebook (we had spiral notebooks). The -wear words were all trends, and made it clear that this was all about the generation, about happy, vibrant lifestyles that were less than five years old.
The boys on the stands already had their nails painted blue. I noted the encounter between "two Italian buyers from the nearby women's ready-to-wear show, bewildered by these iconoclastic outfits" and "an ultra-fashioned model dressed in a Hindu cosmonaut outfit". This one was amused by the clash of cultures: "Wow, these grannies are tripping out! Aaaaah! Where are we?!" The ideology of clothing was changing.
Who's Next was designed to have fun, but also to last. From the very first edition, brands were already creating something new from upcycling. In those days, we called it recycling. Brands turning T-shirts with cheeky slogans into gold. New materials that, yes, make you sweat but their iridescent effect is worth it. Outfits that were too tight and too panther-like (never too tight, never too panther-like).
If the astute curator of a fashion museum had collected the best and the strangest from these first Who's Next shows and designed a time capsule that would have revealed the mantle of the 1990s, it would have reflected the different aesthetics that ran through it, its incredible morgue as well as its concerns. We were already talking about the "barons of wear", and today this greenhouse of beautiful butterflies has become the leading fashion and lifestyle show, a three-day city that emerges at Porte de Versailles with all the oddballs and new brands, the visionaries who are inventing their own space and the quiet forces, the jewellers, the denims, the joyful and the funny, always the avant-garde of eco-responsibility, always the diffracted and therefore faithful radioscopy of current times.
The name Who's Next was a promise that has clearly been kept.
Loïc Prigent
The Parisian eye of Japanese department store Isetan Mitsukoshi tells us about her latest Who’s Next fashion crushes.
Reinhard Plank (Founder and milliner), originally from Vipiteno (Italy) near the Austrian border, first studied design in Vienna before turning to millinery. "I started with hats in Vienna, and my first classic model was a great success," he says. Drawn to Florence's rich hat-making heritage, Reinhard chose this city to perfect his craft.
At the latest edition of “Who’s Next,” we spoke with Camille Pouvreau and Lucas Bouteille, watch and jewellery buyers for Galeries Lafayette, about the burgeoning men’s jewellery market and the long-lasting nature of trends in the watch sector.
A key player in the watchmaking industry since the 1950s, the American Movado Group initially established itself through the distribution of traditional Swiss brands. Over time, it expanded globally, broadening its portfolio to include contemporary designs and jewellery.
Founded in 1954 by the current owner’s parents, Antonio, the Italian shoe brand Guglielmo Rotta is the perfect example of a family craftsmanship that has evolved while remaining true to its roots. At this edition, the brand presented a collection that perfectly illustrates its commitment to quality, timelessness, and Italian craftsmanship.
“Streetwear but make it Couture!” Very Rare, a lifestyle and ready-to-wear brand under the direction of Raf Reyes, embodies an avant-garde vision of streetwear through what the designer defines as ‘street couture’. Born during the 2020 health crisis, this family-run brand, founded with his older brother, stands out for its fluid silhouettes, intricate details such as embroidery, flocking, and graphic prints, and strong influences from 90s subcultures.
For over 15 years, BSL, a Turkish ready-to-wear brand, has made a name for itself in the fashion market in Turkey, with stores in the country’s major cities such as Istanbul, Izmir, Ankara, and Antalya. Initially focused on its own retail outlets, BSL adopted a new strategy last year: expanding its distribution network across Europe.
Reinterpreting its heritage Braccialini, the iconic Italian brand from Florence, is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. "We were born in Florence, and the natural and architectural beauty of Tuscany greatly inspires our creations," shares Daniela, the brand's sales agent.
Craftsmanship at the heart of jewellery creation: a self-taught journey and the rise of gatsby soldering workshop Fifteen years ago, Julie Sion made her mark in the world of costume jewellery with a unique and passionate approach. "I stumbled into this profession a bit by chance," she admits. Self-taught, her first steps into creation were through a craft-focused approach, before collaborating with French workshops to ensure ethical and high-quality production for her eponymous brand. These collaborations led her to develop a strong and engaged community, not only around her creative project but also through the human values she upholds in her work.
During their debut at Who’s Next, the South Korean brand Temp’s, led by Joanne Jeon Eun-jung, captured attention with its deep commitment to sustainability, combined with a modern and conceptual approach to design.
Pamela Kemmat, the influencer and founder of the Pamela Rouen boutique, and her mother Nadège Thevenon, founder of the Paloma Rouen boutique, share their thoughts on “Who’s Next,” an event they regard as the beating heart of the fashion industry.
Meet Abasiekeme Ukanireh, the visionary founder and artistic director of Eki Kere, a Nigerian brand that has captivated audiences with its unique creations, showcasing vibrant raffia-based designs.
Who's Next? The great thing about the initial chaos of Who's Next is that it has lasted.
Street Culture resonates with the complexity of a city’s soul. The people, as a community, are those who define and codify its intricacies. Lifestyle, Fashion, Art and Music intertwine through the cosmopolitan blend that characterizes the singularity of a city’s vibe and energy.
Since its inception in 2019, La Mode Européenne (LME) has stood out for its innovative and transformative approach to the fashion industry. By creating solidarity shops in Congo-Brazzaville and Cape Verde, stocked through donation boxes for clothing and accessories circulated in France and Europe, La Mode Européenne is committed to social and professional reintegration and creating local employment.
Lavinia Muth, an economist specialising in business ethics for actors of the fashion landscape, has dedicated 15 years to advancing social and ecological standards in the textile and creative industries. Her work as an external auditor, inspector, and investigator, in collaboration with Messe Frankfurt’s trade shows for instance, underscores her commitment to fighting against “corporate sustainability” and “green-washing”.
Julien Martinez, founder of the high-end ‘souliers’ brand Souliers Martinez, embodies the perfect fusion of traditional artisanal craftsmanship and contemporary innovation. Combining his deep Spanish roots with his Parisian cultural influences, his company stands out with a unique approach to leather weaving, supported by committed sustainable values and strong ethics.
Founded in Rimini from the vision of the eponymous young Italian designer, Judy Mazzotti, Judy created her brand with a focus on the future and research and development centred on innovation and sustainability.
Every year since 1985, Hyères has played host to the Festival de la Mode et de la Photographie.
Bastien Beny and Simon Delacour are the creative minds behind the Domestique brand, leather goods accessories made in Paris.
At La Caserne, a sustainable fashion incubator in Paris's 10th arrondissement, Jeanne Friot crafts impactful fashion.
Intemporel, artisanal et durable : le denim se réinvente chez la marque athénienne Sac&Co.
In the vibrant atmosphere of Premiere Classe, Comptoir 102, a Dubai-based concept store, continues its pursuit of unique pieces, set against a backdrop of remarkable craftsmanship. Through the insightful lens of Stephanie Chesneau, Sales Director, the store shares its impressions of this edition, where each encounter uncovers unexpected treasures and stories waiting to be shared.
Three experts in fashion and social media discuss community, authenticity, resilience and engagement.
The Parisian eye of Japanese department store Isetan Mitsukoshi tells us about her latest Who’s Next fashion crushes.
Reinhard Plank (Founder and milliner), originally from Vipiteno (Italy) near the Austrian border, first studied design in Vienna before turning to millinery. "I started with hats in Vienna, and my first classic model was a great success," he says. Drawn to Florence's rich hat-making heritage, Reinhard chose this city to perfect his craft.
At the latest edition of “Who’s Next,” we spoke with Camille Pouvreau and Lucas Bouteille, watch and jewellery buyers for Galeries Lafayette, about the burgeoning men’s jewellery market and the long-lasting nature of trends in the watch sector.
A key player in the watchmaking industry since the 1950s, the American Movado Group initially established itself through the distribution of traditional Swiss brands. Over time, it expanded globally, broadening its portfolio to include contemporary designs and jewellery.
Founded in 1954 by the current owner’s parents, Antonio, the Italian shoe brand Guglielmo Rotta is the perfect example of a family craftsmanship that has evolved while remaining true to its roots. At this edition, the brand presented a collection that perfectly illustrates its commitment to quality, timelessness, and Italian craftsmanship.
“Streetwear but make it Couture!” Very Rare, a lifestyle and ready-to-wear brand under the direction of Raf Reyes, embodies an avant-garde vision of streetwear through what the designer defines as ‘street couture’. Born during the 2020 health crisis, this family-run brand, founded with his older brother, stands out for its fluid silhouettes, intricate details such as embroidery, flocking, and graphic prints, and strong influences from 90s subcultures.
For over 15 years, BSL, a Turkish ready-to-wear brand, has made a name for itself in the fashion market in Turkey, with stores in the country’s major cities such as Istanbul, Izmir, Ankara, and Antalya. Initially focused on its own retail outlets, BSL adopted a new strategy last year: expanding its distribution network across Europe.
Reinterpreting its heritage Braccialini, the iconic Italian brand from Florence, is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. "We were born in Florence, and the natural and architectural beauty of Tuscany greatly inspires our creations," shares Daniela, the brand's sales agent.
Craftsmanship at the heart of jewellery creation: a self-taught journey and the rise of gatsby soldering workshop Fifteen years ago, Julie Sion made her mark in the world of costume jewellery with a unique and passionate approach. "I stumbled into this profession a bit by chance," she admits. Self-taught, her first steps into creation were through a craft-focused approach, before collaborating with French workshops to ensure ethical and high-quality production for her eponymous brand. These collaborations led her to develop a strong and engaged community, not only around her creative project but also through the human values she upholds in her work.
During their debut at Who’s Next, the South Korean brand Temp’s, led by Joanne Jeon Eun-jung, captured attention with its deep commitment to sustainability, combined with a modern and conceptual approach to design.
Pamela Kemmat, the influencer and founder of the Pamela Rouen boutique, and her mother Nadège Thevenon, founder of the Paloma Rouen boutique, share their thoughts on “Who’s Next,” an event they regard as the beating heart of the fashion industry.
Meet Abasiekeme Ukanireh, the visionary founder and artistic director of Eki Kere, a Nigerian brand that has captivated audiences with its unique creations, showcasing vibrant raffia-based designs.
Since 1989, the ANDAM (National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts) has played a crucial role in promoting young talent within the fashion industry. Supported by both institutional and private partners, including the Ministry of Culture and industry giants like Balenciaga, Hermès, and Chanel, ANDAM serves as a unique springboard for emerging designers. This year, in conjunction with Premiere Classe, which celebrated ANDAM’s 35th anniversary last March at Maxim's, the prize winners will once again showcase their creations in the ANDAM space at the Carrousel du Louvre from 28th to 30th September.
In the vibrant world of creative industries, the Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories has been a guiding light for emerging talents since 1986. This year, three of the winners from its 38th edition join the selection at the Premiere Classe trade show, a prestigious platform for up-and-coming designers.
The Premiere Classe trade show is dedicated to showcasing creativity and offering turnkey solutions to highlight the essential trends of the season. Renowned for its ability to identify and present emerging creative scenes, the show supports brands in their growth, establishing itself as a key reference for buyers and designers alike.
In the upcoming edition of the Who's Next trade show, taking place from the 8th to the 10th of September, we are excited to present a remarkable selection of new business solutions. Companies from across France and beyond are bringing their unique and innovative visions to the contemporary commercial landscape, blending advanced technology, refined aesthetics, and sustainable commitments. Through their services, these market players highlight innovative, responsible, and transformative practices for the fashion landscape industries.
At the prospect of the upcoming edition of Who’s Next trade shows, we are delighted to once again showcase the remarkable selection of the What’s Up space.
Who's Next? The great thing about the initial chaos of Who's Next is that it has lasted.
In anticipation of the upcoming BIJORHCA trade show, held alongside Who's Next from the 8th to the 10th of September at Porte de Versailles, we are delighted to present a selection of new brands you won’t want to miss. A must-attend event for the jewellery industry since 1930, Bijorhca returns this year with a fresh wave of inspiration for jewellery enthusiasts and professionals alike.
Founded in 2021 by Germain Provot Lorenz, Treaptyque is far more than just a showroom—it's a vibrant and unique space dedicated to curating exceptional pieces.
KEIA (Korea Environmental Industry Association) advocates for eco-conscious initiatives among creative industries in South Korea and abroad notably. Since 2023, the association has been exhibiting on our IMPACT trade show along with Who’s Next. Their project revolves around supporting and promoting sustainable practices and key players of Korea’s industries on an international scale.
BIJORHCA returns alongside Who's Next to transport you from the urban buzz of Barcelona to the carefree summers of the Balearic Islands. Bright and poetic, Spanish jewellery celebrates its artisanal and cultural heritage through both contemporary and timeless designs.
Future Positive by Smiley is back with a space dedicated to its fashion collaborations with brands such as Eastpak, Rainkiss, Jules, Snocks, Saturday Society, Hoptimist and Small World, in the IMPACT area of Who's Next.
Discover the jewelry trades at Bijorhca with Savoir pour Faire, from January 20 to 22, 2024. Bijorhca will be showcasing know-how in Hall 4, where some 150 brands and suppliers are expected.
From January 20 to 22, Who's Next presents its hair fashion selection.
Who's Next presents its new edition, from January 20 to 22, 2024.
Imaginé et créé en 2013, le collectif A Jewel Made In Greece présente et promeut le savoir-faire joaillier grec.
