Interviewing Julien Martinez: The Cultural Fusion of Souliers Martinez, Between Heritage and Innovation

As the western aesthetic captivates designers, brands, and consumers, one French brand is riding the wave: Soco. Created in 1932, this “sleeping beauty” brand was revived three years ago, following a brief closure, thanks to the efforts of two passionate sisters-in-law who share the same first name. So the story of Soco is continuing under the stewardship of the “Maries Mignon.”

The Turkish brand Khailo Silver has been offering modern and elegant jewellery for over ten years. With meticulous finishes inspired by fine and high jewellery, their premium designs, often adorned with Swarovski crystals or other precious and semi-precious stones, have made them internationally renowned.

Founded in 2015 by the Italian duo Michelangelo Brancato and Francilla Ronchi, Coreterno is a niche perfume brand whose name means “eternal heart” in Italian, and the brand creates unique candles imbued with esotericism. Their style is a blend of rock, almost punk aesthetics, and a mystical aura, forming an invisible bridge between the ancient and the modern.

Based in New York City, the hat brand Esenshel, founded and led by Rodney Patterson, embodies a unique approach to hat creation.

Presenting for the first time at Premiere Classe, Amina Galal represents a new generation of Arab designers who blend tradition and modernity with a personal, emotional touch.

For Thaïs Roblowski, fashion is a true calling, and after studying design and pattern-making at the Chambre Syndicale and interning at Thom Browne in New York and Mugler, she became a stylist at Cacharel and Alzaro.

The Parisian eye of Japanese department store Isetan Mitsukoshi tells us about her latest Who’s Next fashion crushes.

Reinhard Plank (Founder and milliner), originally from Vipiteno (Italy) near the Austrian border, first studied design in Vienna before turning to millinery. "I started with hats in Vienna, and my first classic model was a great success," he says. Drawn to Florence's rich hat-making heritage, Reinhard chose this city to perfect his craft.

At the latest edition of “Who’s Next,” we spoke with Camille Pouvreau and Lucas Bouteille, watch and jewellery buyers for Galeries Lafayette, about the burgeoning men’s jewellery market and the long-lasting nature of trends in the watch sector.

A key player in the watchmaking industry since the 1950s, the American Movado Group initially established itself through the distribution of traditional Swiss brands. Over time, it expanded globally, broadening its portfolio to include contemporary designs and jewellery.

Founded in 1954 by the current owner’s parents, Antonio, the Italian shoe brand Guglielmo Rotta is the perfect example of a family craftsmanship that has evolved while remaining true to its roots. At this edition, the brand presented a collection that perfectly illustrates its commitment to quality, timelessness, and Italian craftsmanship.

“Streetwear but make it Couture!” Very Rare, a lifestyle and ready-to-wear brand under the direction of Raf Reyes, embodies an avant-garde vision of streetwear through what the designer defines as ‘street couture’. Born during the 2020 health crisis, this family-run brand, founded with his older brother, stands out for its fluid silhouettes, intricate details such as embroidery, flocking, and graphic prints, and strong influences from 90s subcultures.

For over 15 years, BSL, a Turkish ready-to-wear brand, has made a name for itself in the fashion market in Turkey, with stores in the country’s major cities such as Istanbul, Izmir, Ankara, and Antalya. Initially focused on its own retail outlets, BSL adopted a new strategy last year: expanding its distribution network across Europe.

Reinterpreting its heritage Braccialini, the iconic Italian brand from Florence, is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. "We were born in Florence, and the natural and architectural beauty of Tuscany greatly inspires our creations," shares Daniela, the brand's sales agent.

Craftsmanship at the heart of jewellery creation: a self-taught journey and the rise of gatsby soldering workshop Fifteen years ago, Julie Sion made her mark in the world of costume jewellery with a unique and passionate approach. "I stumbled into this profession a bit by chance," she admits. Self-taught, her first steps into creation were through a craft-focused approach, before collaborating with French workshops to ensure ethical and high-quality production for her eponymous brand. These collaborations led her to develop a strong and engaged community, not only around her creative project but also through the human values she upholds in her work.

During their debut at Who’s Next, the South Korean brand Temp’s, led by Joanne Jeon Eun-jung, captured attention with its deep commitment to sustainability, combined with a modern and conceptual approach to design.

Pamela Kemmat, the influencer and founder of the Pamela Rouen boutique, and her mother Nadège Thevenon, founder of the Paloma Rouen boutique, share their thoughts on “Who’s Next,” an event they regard as the beating heart of the fashion industry.

Meet Abasiekeme Ukanireh, the visionary founder and artistic director of Eki Kere, a Nigerian brand that has captivated audiences with its unique creations, showcasing vibrant raffia-based designs.

Who's Next? The great thing about the initial chaos of Who's Next is that it has lasted.

Street Culture resonates with the complexity of a city’s soul. The people, as a community, are those who define and codify its intricacies. Lifestyle, Fashion, Art and Music intertwine through the cosmopolitan blend that characterizes the singularity of a city’s vibe and energy.

Since its inception in 2019, La Mode Européenne (LME) has stood out for its innovative and transformative approach to the fashion industry. By creating solidarity shops in Congo-Brazzaville and Cape Verde, stocked through donation boxes for clothing and accessories circulated in France and Europe, La Mode Européenne is committed to social and professional reintegration and creating local employment.

Lavinia Muth, an economist specialising in business ethics for actors of the fashion landscape, has dedicated 15 years to advancing social and ecological standards in the textile and creative industries. Her work as an external auditor, inspector, and investigator, in collaboration with Messe Frankfurt’s trade shows for instance, underscores her commitment to fighting against “corporate sustainability” and “green-washing”.

Julien Martinez, founder of the high-end ‘souliers’ brand Souliers Martinez, embodies the perfect fusion of traditional artisanal craftsmanship and contemporary innovation. Combining his deep Spanish roots with his Parisian cultural influences, his company stands out with a unique approach to leather weaving, supported by committed sustainable values and strong ethics.

Founded in Rimini from the vision of the eponymous young Italian designer, Judy Mazzotti, Judy created her brand with a focus on the future and research and development centred on innovation and sustainability.

Every year since 1985, Hyères has played host to the Festival de la Mode et de la Photographie.

Bastien Beny and Simon Delacour are the creative minds behind the Domestique brand, leather goods accessories made in Paris.

At La Caserne, a sustainable fashion incubator in Paris's 10th arrondissement, Jeanne Friot crafts impactful fashion.