Founded in 2015 by the Italian duo Michelangelo Brancato and Francilla Ronchi, Coreterno is a niche perfume brand whose name means “eternal heart” in Italian, and the brand creates unique candles imbued with esotericism. Their style is a blend of rock, almost punk aesthetics, and a mystical aura, forming an invisible bridge between the ancient and the modern.
Is TikTok killing Instagram ? A conference by the Fédération du Prêt-à-Porter Féminin at Who's Next
Last September, the Fédération Française du Prêt-à-Porter Féminin enhanced Who's Next with talks and workshops on digital marketing in fashion. Here's a look back at the ‘Did TikTok kill Instagram? Three experts in fashion and social media discuss community, authenticity, resilience and engagement.
Instagram was the heart of the party, a digital magazine of its own which had overthrown Facebook and blogs by means of polished filters and clever hashtags. But its sponsored content and glamorous influencers have ended up losing authenticity. Have we absorbed too much Instagram content, to the point of nausea ? Or has the tide simply turned, driven by TikTok’s wave of spontaneous, authentical and accessible content that capture consummers’ attention by storm ? What are the new rules governing social media today ?
A profound rupture
For Romain Tardy, founder of Bureau Tardy and CEO of Marcia Wear, TikTok has created a profound rupture in the way we consume digital content. “What TikTok shows us is no longer based on who we follow, but on our own interests, via its ‘for you’ page. It gives a brand the ability to reach a wider audience than the one it initially targets.” The key to capturing attention ? Short, dynamic and entertaining content that contrasts with Instagram’s polished aesthetic. One no longer needs to build a community in order to succeed on TikTok – just be yourself and capitalize on a trend, however niche it may be. Cottage Core, Brat Summer and Very demure / Very mindful are perfect examples. On TikTok, aesthetics, celebrities, concepts and human beings all coexist on the same level, and everyone can have their share. For brands, it’s an opportunity to take a step back from the perfect world of Instagram and institutional campaigns : all it takes is a clever video thrown into the flow of a successful trend.
A flexible strategy
“This approach works very well in France, where TikTok is not as saturated as it is in the U.S.” says Flàvia Zerbinato, a communications and influencer marketing expert for Melissa and Typologie. “In the U.S., it has become a search engine of its own, affecting even political scenarios.” For her, no brand today can omit TikTok from its social media strategy, but Instagram remains essential. “Two things have to be taken in account : the goal of the campaign and the positioning of the brand. For example, Typologie’s aesthetic and minimalist branding are perfect for Instagram, but for its conversion objectives, betting on TikTok influencers and the TikTok shop [a shopping feature that enables consumers in some countries to purchase products via TikTok] is very effective. At Melissa, we’re more focused on cultural positioning, brand awareness and engagement. We still use influencers, but in a different way.”
Théodore Charignon co-founded the streetwear brand Veryrare, an Instagram success. For him, it’s all about keeping it human with his community. “It’s easy to forget that followers are actual people. At Veryrare, we try not to lose sight of the fact that these people are interested in us, and that we need to interact with them. We do so via quizzes, giveways...” With 80% of sales generated in the U.S., TikTok almost comes as an obstacle for the Paris-based brand. “Content distribution there is much more segmented according to where you post from, so it’s harder to reach an American audience from Paris than it is via Instagram.” He also mentions TikTok’s political issues, threatened by a U.S. ban if China doesn’t find an agreement to sell the app to a local market.
Luxury needs to keep up
Should brands bet on Instagram or TikTok ? Both, without a doubt. As Romain Tardy notes, what brand today would want to deprive itself of the billions of potential TikTok customers ? “For a digital-native brand, social media represents 40% of sales. For a more traditional wholesale brand, it is still 20%.” That is, if you understand what’s at stake. Campaigns, desirability and making people dream have always been the essence of the luxury industry, but it is authenticity and spontaneity that consumers crave today, so they can identify with the products they covet. “It’s vital to take these changes into account. You have to adjust your strategy in real time and be open to the time’s mood. Loewe had done it brilliantly, proving that savoir-faire and entertainment are not mutually exclusive.” Unlike other major brands, still a little afraid of losing control of their content.
Whether traditional or digital-native, fashion or beauty, no brand can do without social media today. As for choosing between TikTok and Instagram, the cleverest ones will do both, each with a tailored strategy. For brands with very defined processes, it’s all about being resilient: in order to keep track of a highly saturated market, they’ll have to adapt in real time to ongoing changes dictated, hand in hand, by the leading duo of consumers and apps.
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