Last September, the Fédération Française du Prêt-à-Porter Féminin enhanced Who's Next with talks and workshops on digital marketing in fashion. Here's a look back at the ‘Did TikTok kill Instagram? Three experts in fashion and social media discuss community, authenticity, resilience and engagement.
Instagram was the heart of the party, a digital magazine of its own which had overthrown Facebook and blogs by means of polished filters and clever hashtags. But its sponsored content and glamorous influencers have ended up losing authenticity. Have we absorbed too much Instagram content, to the point of nausea ? Or has the tide simply turned, driven by TikTok’s wave of spontaneous, authentical and accessible content that capture consummers’ attention by storm ? What are the new rules governing social media today ?
A profound rupture
For Romain Tardy, founder of Bureau Tardy and CEO of Marcia Wear, TikTok has created a profound rupture in the way we consume digital content. “What TikTok shows us is no longer based on who we follow, but on our own interests, via its ‘for you’ page. It gives a brand the ability to reach a wider audience than the one it initially targets.” The key to capturing attention ? Short, dynamic and entertaining content that contrasts with Instagram’s polished aesthetic. One no longer needs to build a community in order to succeed on TikTok – just be yourself and capitalize on a trend, however niche it may be. Cottage Core, Brat Summer and Very demure / Very mindful are perfect examples. On TikTok, aesthetics, celebrities, concepts and human beings all coexist on the same level, and everyone can have their share. For brands, it’s an opportunity to take a step back from the perfect world of Instagram and institutional campaigns : all it takes is a clever video thrown into the flow of a successful trend.
A flexible strategy
“This approach works very well in France, where TikTok is not as saturated as it is in the U.S.” says Flàvia Zerbinato, a communications and influencer marketing expert for Melissa and Typologie. “In the U.S., it has become a search engine of its own, affecting even political scenarios.” For her, no brand today can omit TikTok from its social media strategy, but Instagram remains essential. “Two things have to be taken in account : the goal of the campaign and the positioning of the brand. For example, Typologie’s aesthetic and minimalist branding are perfect for Instagram, but for its conversion objectives, betting on TikTok influencers and the TikTok shop [a shopping feature that enables consumers in some countries to purchase products via TikTok] is very effective. At Melissa, we’re more focused on cultural positioning, brand awareness and engagement. We still use influencers, but in a different way.”
Théodore Charignon co-founded the streetwear brand Veryrare, an Instagram success. For him, it’s all about keeping it human with his community. “It’s easy to forget that followers are actual people. At Veryrare, we try not to lose sight of the fact that these people are interested in us, and that we need to interact with them. We do so via quizzes, giveways...” With 80% of sales generated in the U.S., TikTok almost comes as an obstacle for the Paris-based brand. “Content distribution there is much more segmented according to where you post from, so it’s harder to reach an American audience from Paris than it is via Instagram.” He also mentions TikTok’s political issues, threatened by a U.S. ban if China doesn’t find an agreement to sell the app to a local market.
Luxury needs to keep up
Should brands bet on Instagram or TikTok ? Both, without a doubt. As Romain Tardy notes, what brand today would want to deprive itself of the billions of potential TikTok customers ? “For a digital-native brand, social media represents 40% of sales. For a more traditional wholesale brand, it is still 20%.” That is, if you understand what’s at stake. Campaigns, desirability and making people dream have always been the essence of the luxury industry, but it is authenticity and spontaneity that consumers crave today, so they can identify with the products they covet. “It’s vital to take these changes into account. You have to adjust your strategy in real time and be open to the time’s mood. Loewe had done it brilliantly, proving that savoir-faire and entertainment are not mutually exclusive.” Unlike other major brands, still a little afraid of losing control of their content.
Whether traditional or digital-native, fashion or beauty, no brand can do without social media today. As for choosing between TikTok and Instagram, the cleverest ones will do both, each with a tailored strategy. For brands with very defined processes, it’s all about being resilient: in order to keep track of a highly saturated market, they’ll have to adapt in real time to ongoing changes dictated, hand in hand, by the leading duo of consumers and apps.
From 18 to 20 January 2025, the Who’s Next trade show at Porte de Versailles (Paris) invites you to experience the warm, bucolic charm of countryside living through a diverse selection of brands—ranging from iconic names to promising new talents with innovative and sustainable concepts.
As the western aesthetic captivates designers, brands, and consumers, one French brand is riding the wave: Soco. Created in 1932, this “sleeping beauty” brand was revived three years ago, following a brief closure, thanks to the efforts of two passionate sisters-in-law who share the same first name. So the story of Soco is continuing under the stewardship of the “Maries Mignon.”
The Turkish brand Khailo Silver has been offering modern and elegant jewellery for over ten years. With meticulous finishes inspired by fine and high jewellery, their premium designs, often adorned with Swarovski crystals or other precious and semi-precious stones, have made them internationally renowned.
Founded in 2015 by the Italian duo Michelangelo Brancato and Francilla Ronchi, Coreterno is a niche perfume brand whose name means “eternal heart” in Italian, and the brand creates unique candles imbued with esotericism. Their style is a blend of rock, almost punk aesthetics, and a mystical aura, forming an invisible bridge between the ancient and the modern.
From the 18th to the 20th of January 2025, Who’s Next will once again take over the iconic halls of Porte de Versailles in Paris, inviting visitors to explore the inspiring Villa Beauté space. A true intersection of beauty, wellness, and lifestyle, this innovative hub showcases the latest trends and technologies in an immersive, multi-sensory environment.
Based in New York City, the hat brand Esenshel, founded and led by Rodney Patterson, embodies a unique approach to hat creation.
Presenting for the first time at Premiere Classe, Amina Galal represents a new generation of Arab designers who blend tradition and modernity with a personal, emotional touch.
For Thaïs Roblowski, fashion is a true calling, and after studying design and pattern-making at the Chambre Syndicale and interning at Thom Browne in New York and Mugler, she became a stylist at Cacharel and Alzaro.
Founded two and a half years ago, Chou au Carré offers upcycled accessories made in France using fabrics from major fashion houses. For founder Victoria, the brand was a natural fit.
Modern and elegant shoes, a sustainable vision, and a manifesto for responsible and positive fashion. Welcome to Odaje. Meet Alexis, the Commercial Director of this footwear brand.
Amid the vibrant energy of emerging talents shaping the future of fashion, one designer stands out for her bold vision and unwavering commitment to sustainability. Léa Theres Lahr-Thiele, the young German prodigy and winner of the prestigious NEONYT Texpertise Sustainability Award, shines brightly this season with her meaningful and innovative approach to design.
Special boutique, special offer : a hotel buyer’s perspective.
Fashion, an eternal cycle, is witnessing the resurgence of iconic brands that defined the 2000s alongside new players on the global scene, whose aesthetics reinterpret this pivotal decade in contemporary fashion. For the upcoming edition of Who's Next, taking place from 18 to 20 January 2025 at Porte de Versailles, Paris, we celebrate the return of these legendary labels as part of our exhibition.
As winter sets in, the collections showcased at our upcoming event shine with warm tones and comforting textures.
Timeless, artisanal, and sustainable: denim is reinvented at the Athenian brand Sac&Co.
In the vibrant atmosphere of Premiere Classe, Comptoir 102, a Dubai-based concept store, continues its pursuit of unique pieces, set against a backdrop of remarkable craftsmanship. Through the insightful lens of Stephanie Chesneau, Sales Director, the store shares its impressions of this edition, where each encounter uncovers unexpected treasures and stories waiting to be shared.
Last September, the Fédération Française du Prêt-à-Porter Féminin enhanced Who's Next with talks and workshops on digital marketing in fashion. Here's a look back at the ‘Did TikTok kill Instagram? Three experts in fashion and social media discuss community, authenticity, resilience and engagement.
The Parisian eye of Japanese department store Isetan Mitsukoshi tells us about her latest Who’s Next fashion crushes.
Reinhard Plank (Founder and milliner), originally from Vipiteno (Italy) near the Austrian border, first studied design in Vienna before turning to millinery. "I started with hats in Vienna, and my first classic model was a great success," he says. Drawn to Florence's rich hat-making heritage, Reinhard chose this city to perfect his craft.
At the latest edition of “Who’s Next,” we spoke with Camille Pouvreau and Lucas Bouteille, watch and jewellery buyers for Galeries Lafayette, about the burgeoning men’s jewellery market and the long-lasting nature of trends in the watch sector.
A key player in the watchmaking industry since the 1950s, the American Movado Group initially established itself through the distribution of traditional Swiss brands. Over time, it expanded globally, broadening its portfolio to include contemporary designs and jewellery.
Founded in 1954 by the current owner’s parents, Antonio, the Italian shoe brand Guglielmo Rotta is the perfect example of a family craftsmanship that has evolved while remaining true to its roots. At this edition, the brand presented a collection that perfectly illustrates its commitment to quality, timelessness, and Italian craftsmanship.
“Streetwear but make it Couture!” Very Rare, a lifestyle and ready-to-wear brand under the direction of Raf Reyes, embodies an avant-garde vision of streetwear through what the designer defines as ‘street couture’. Born during the 2020 health crisis, this family-run brand, founded with his older brother, stands out for its fluid silhouettes, intricate details such as embroidery, flocking, and graphic prints, and strong influences from 90s subcultures.
For over 15 years, BSL, a Turkish ready-to-wear brand, has made a name for itself in the fashion market in Turkey, with stores in the country’s major cities such as Istanbul, Izmir, Ankara, and Antalya. Initially focused on its own retail outlets, BSL adopted a new strategy last year: expanding its distribution network across Europe.
Reinterpreting its heritage Braccialini, the iconic Italian brand from Florence, is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. "We were born in Florence, and the natural and architectural beauty of Tuscany greatly inspires our creations," shares Daniela, the brand's sales agent.
Craftsmanship at the heart of jewellery creation: a self-taught journey and the rise of gatsby soldering workshop Fifteen years ago, Julie Sion made her mark in the world of costume jewellery with a unique and passionate approach. "I stumbled into this profession a bit by chance," she admits. Self-taught, her first steps into creation were through a craft-focused approach, before collaborating with French workshops to ensure ethical and high-quality production for her eponymous brand. These collaborations led her to develop a strong and engaged community, not only around her creative project but also through the human values she upholds in her work.
During their debut at Who’s Next, the South Korean brand Temp’s, led by Joanne Jeon Eun-jung, captured attention with its deep commitment to sustainability, combined with a modern and conceptual approach to design.
Pamela Kemmat, the influencer and founder of the Pamela Rouen boutique, and her mother Nadège Thevenon, founder of the Paloma Rouen boutique, share their thoughts on “Who’s Next,” an event they regard as the beating heart of the fashion industry.
Meet Abasiekeme Ukanireh, the visionary founder and artistic director of Eki Kere, a Nigerian brand that has captivated audiences with its unique creations, showcasing vibrant raffia-based designs.
Since 1989, the ANDAM (National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts) has played a crucial role in promoting young talent within the fashion industry. Supported by both institutional and private partners, including the Ministry of Culture and industry giants like Balenciaga, Hermès, and Chanel, ANDAM serves as a unique springboard for emerging designers. This year, in conjunction with Premiere Classe, which celebrated ANDAM’s 35th anniversary last March at Maxim's, the prize winners will once again showcase their creations in the ANDAM space at the Carrousel du Louvre from 28th to 30th September.
In the vibrant world of creative industries, the Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories has been a guiding light for emerging talents since 1986. This year, three of the winners from its 38th edition join the selection at the Premiere Classe trade show, a prestigious platform for up-and-coming designers.
The Premiere Classe trade show is dedicated to showcasing creativity and offering turnkey solutions to highlight the essential trends of the season. Renowned for its ability to identify and present emerging creative scenes, the show supports brands in their growth, establishing itself as a key reference for buyers and designers alike.
In the upcoming edition of the Who's Next trade show, taking place from the 8th to the 10th of September, we are excited to present a remarkable selection of new business solutions. Companies from across France and beyond are bringing their unique and innovative visions to the contemporary commercial landscape, blending advanced technology, refined aesthetics, and sustainable commitments. Through their services, these market players highlight innovative, responsible, and transformative practices for the fashion landscape industries.
At the prospect of the upcoming edition of Who’s Next trade shows, we are delighted to once again showcase the remarkable selection of the What’s Up space.
Who's Next? The great thing about the initial chaos of Who's Next is that it has lasted.
In anticipation of the upcoming BIJORHCA trade show, held alongside Who's Next from the 8th to the 10th of September at Porte de Versailles, we are delighted to present a selection of new brands you won’t want to miss. A must-attend event for the jewellery industry since 1930, Bijorhca returns this year with a fresh wave of inspiration for jewellery enthusiasts and professionals alike.
Founded in 2021 by Germain Provot Lorenz, Treaptyque is far more than just a showroom—it's a vibrant and unique space dedicated to curating exceptional pieces.
KEIA (Korea Environmental Industry Association) advocates for eco-conscious initiatives among creative industries in South Korea and abroad notably. Since 2023, the association has been exhibiting on our IMPACT trade show along with Who’s Next. Their project revolves around supporting and promoting sustainable practices and key players of Korea’s industries on an international scale.
BIJORHCA returns alongside Who's Next to transport you from the urban buzz of Barcelona to the carefree summers of the Balearic Islands. Bright and poetic, Spanish jewellery celebrates its artisanal and cultural heritage through both contemporary and timeless designs.
Future Positive by Smiley is back with a space dedicated to its fashion collaborations with brands such as Eastpak, Rainkiss, Jules, Snocks, Saturday Society, Hoptimist and Small World, in the IMPACT area of Who's Next.
Discover the jewelry trades at Bijorhca with Savoir pour Faire, from January 20 to 22, 2024. Bijorhca will be showcasing know-how in Hall 4, where some 150 brands and suppliers are expected.
From January 20 to 22, Who's Next presents its hair fashion selection.
Who's Next presents its new edition, from January 20 to 22, 2024.
Imaginé et créé en 2013, le collectif A Jewel Made In Greece présente et promeut le savoir-faire joaillier grec.
