Premiere Classe : 15 designers to follow according to NellyRodi
Last September on Premiere Classe, the experts from Nelly Rodi, a consultancy specializing in the creative industries, spotted 15 designers to watch.
Since its creation in 1985 by its eponymous founder, the NellyRodi agency has established itself as a true expert in the detection and analysis of trends in the creative industries sector. On Premiere Classe, Nelly Rodi was there for the launch of her book "Quelques saisons d'avances", which retraces her singular career in fashion. The experts from NellyRodi took advantage of their visit to the show to explore the aisles and discover the 15 brands that will be setting the next trends.
Mussels and Muscles
In a few words
Founded in 2021 by Viennese designer Lea Köhn, the brand designs jewelry in silver, gold and recycled glass. Each piece is handcrafted using recycled and responsibly sourced materials. Other raw materials, such as gemstones and pearls, are consciously purchased from antique shops or extracted from jewelry that is no longer worn. With a background at Munich's Academy of Fine Arts, the designer's approach is shaped by the tension between art and design, with a strong focus on transparency.
Why we love
- The fine lines, softness and transparency of a glass range, a precise minimalism.
- Responsible sourcing of materials.
Domestique
In a few words
Domestique designs and manufactures innovative, eco-responsible accessories, 100% handmade to order in Paris, using an ultra-local supply chain. The brand won the Grand prix de la création 2023, in the 'accessories' category.
Why we love
- The universe of this collection based around the Sunday morning market.
- The authenticity, craftsmanship & quality of the materials.
- The touch of humor and derision.
- Sets of receipts and crates in revisited leather.
Arrhe Studio
In a few words
Arrhe is an artisan studio/workshop founded in 2021, in Italy. Arrhe combines design, research and development of products ranging from fashion accessories to furniture. The studio explores the potential of leather through sculpture and engraving.
Why we love
- Clean, graphic and essential designs.
- Vegetable-tanned leathers and natural colors.
- Handcrafted products.
10.03.53
In a few words
10.03.53 is a leather goods brand founded in 2020 by Italian Luca Colosimo. After training in leatherworking in Milan and ten years with prestigious houses - Gucci, Paco Rabanne, Isabel Marant - his desire for independence led him to launch his own label. A year after its creation, 10.03.53 was invited to join Les Ateliers de Paris, a Parisian municipal collective set up to support young designers. With its reasoned approach and penchant for slow design, the brand recovers surplus leather from the luxury goods industry to produce a small range of unisex handbags
Why we love
- Organic, evolving shapes: volumes transform according to the way they are worn.
- The no-gender collections.
- The use of cellulose, paper and reinforced concrete.
Audette
In a few words
Audette is an independent handbag brand created by Aude Jan and Charles Gout, a French design duo based in Mexico City. Their desire is to create sleek design objects that transcend the everyday use of the handbag. Constantly working on femininity and masculinity, the brand seeks its essence in unconventional shapes and vibrant colors. A few months after its creation, Audette was spotted by MoMa in New York and is now distributed in selected stores in France, Japan, Italy, the United States and Mexico.
Why we love
- Unconventional shapes.
- Vibrant colors.
- Futuristic, dreamlike designs.
Filodee
In a few words
Filodee is an Austrian leather goods label, focusing on design, subtle craftsmanship and quality. The range is unisex. Premium leathers are recycled. Timeless colors and an almost invisible logo add a subtle elegance.
Why we love
- From mini to medium, each line is available in functional sizes.
- Cameo shades.
- A unisex offering.
- Unexpected buckles, like the XXL button in gold metal.
Dragon.Diffusion
In a few words
Dragon Diffusion is a brand of handmade, woven leather bags and baskets. A high-end craftman that now extends to a ready-to-wear line.
Why we love
- Affordable everyday luxury.
- Premium urban weaving.
- A colorama of dense hues, sophisticated neutrals and shades.
Room.022
In a few words
Founded in 2016 in Brazil with the aim of offering a business built around organic materials. The collections are inspired by archives of Brazilian objects, furniture and architecture. The brand has collaborated with Kaithe NY.
Why we love
- "puffage" embossing effects
- A maximalist/minimalist style in tune with the times, with pleated, cut and fringed skins...
Manolita
In a few words
A Brazilian brand founded by women whose desire is to respect the comfort, durability and activity of women's lives with a colorful aesthetic. The brand aims to combine art, design and comfort.
Why we love
- Color ranges.
- Arty details.
- Comfort first.
Add Culumn
In a few words
A Japanese label that favors materials of non-animal origin. A basic range with architecturally inspired cuts in pretty genderless neutrals enhanced by vibrant colors. The new collection works on the traditional origami spirit, which is played out in touches. A range of small cases, phone holders and pouches to accumulate around the neck like urban "gris-gris" to wear.
Why we love
- Functional, minimal, recognizable, in any size.
- Desirable versatility: a unisex accessory that can be accumulated season after season.
- Singular seasonal vibrancy.
Louise Marcaud
In a few words
The brand revisits tailoring, relying on thoughtful garment construction to offer exceptional quality and originality. The garments offer a contrast between neutral colors and complex shapes, with well-thought-out draping, pleating and volume. An urban offering with neutral, timeless color schemes and streetwear accents revisited in a minimalist version. The large pieces and upcycled suits are designed to reflect today's CSR values. The brand draws its inspiration from various Japanese and Indian cultures to revisit traditional garments and codes.
Why we love
- Cross-gender volumes.
- A timeless, streamlined offer, with military accents and mixed suits.
- Local design and production
Claramonte
In a few words
Already recognized for its premium handcrafted leather goods expertise, the label is expanding its offering to include easy-to-wear, tender ready-to-wear in refined pastel colors. Volumes sometimes inspired by history in handmade cotton voile and crochet, for a casual, modern and romantic silhouette.
Why we love
- A singular coloristic atmosphere, ethnic and tender.
- A non-seasonal spirit.
- Cool neo-romanticism.
The More Project
In a few words
The More Project was born with the ambition of making fashion more accessible to all, and offering a creative wardrobe for free spirits. A genderless, utopian neo-ready-to-wear based around a minimal uniform that season after season is customized by young emerging artists, be they graphic designers, painters or visual artists. This season, the splendid line work of Clovis Rétif is featured. A reduced, timeless offer, singularized by the artist chosen. Beyond the brand, The More Project is a platform for awareness-raising, exchange and sharing around unifying values.
Why we love
- A genderless urban neo-uniform.
- The curation concept: "wearable" artist sponsorship.
- Clothing as a means of expression
- A singularly versatile offer.
Amniotic
In a few words
A premium jewelry concept, affordable and modular, designed in France. A singular link between organic modernity and contemporary classicism, in three metallizations that can be mixed and matched as desired. Entirely designed in France, it can be considered the intergenerational and genderless link.
Why we love
- The timeless link for all
- A unique, organic and classic design.
- An affordable jewelry spirit
Kapush
In a few words
A start-up that "decompartmentalizes" the hood to make it a demanding design. From its Paris studio, Kapush imagines removable accessories blending streetwear and design influences, with modern, unisex cuts made in a renowned workshop in Italy. The brand works to bespoke orders and colors, to ensure consistent quality.
Why we love
- The wearable cocoon with a tech'practical aspect for braving the elements.
- The value of a versatile, free-spirited accessory.
- A bold graphic universe.